Kendall-Jackson: Christy Canterbury Master of Wine Touts WinePrO2’s Many Benefits Over Aerators

Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine, recently reviewed the WinePrO2 and weighed in on the topic of wine aerators (view the full article):  Last and certainly not least is the WinePrO2, described as a “Proactive Decanter”. It technically is neither an aerator nor a decanter. It uses 100% oxygen, not air, which has only 21% oxygen. It also uses your wine glass as a decanter. Perhaps its best description would be ‘”oxygenator”‘?

Semantics aside, the WinePrO2 works, and it works to the wine’s benefit. It is also incredibly easy and quick to use. You insert the wand attached to the decanting cartridge into a glass of wine and give the unit’s lever a 1/4-second squeeze. The wine bubbles up briefly as the oxygen integrates into the wine. As the device’s documentation rightly mentions, note that more O2 is not necessarily better. With a 1/4-second squeeze, the results are more fruit-driven aromatics and smoother textures on all wines.

This is pricey, with a $199 price tag (which includes the device, a decanting cartridge and a preservation cartridge) and $35.95 (three-pack of cartridges) replacement refill cartridges. However, each decanting cartridge can decant at least an entire 12-bottle case of wine. Plus, there are two additional benefits to the WinePrO2. First, because you are aerating wine when it is already in a glass, you don’t have to open a bottle sealed with a cork. You would use a Coravin to access a single glass then aerate only that glass with the WinePrO2. It’s a wine drinker’s dream! Second, if you do open the bottle, the WinePrO2 preservation cartridge filled with argon can save up to 60 bottles of unfinished wine.

THE FINAL DROP

Do yourself a favor: don’t buy wine aerators, unless you’re splurging on a WinePrO2. They’re great party gadgets, but the vast majority make no difference in wine aroma after a few minutes of the wine sitting in the glass. They make mightily little difference in wine texture, too. I split hairs over hours to figure this out so that you don’t have to. I’ll continue to test items that come my way and keep you informed of any exciting, new developments!

Christy Canterbury is a Master of Wine, journalist, speaker and judge based in New York City. In 2014, she was short-listed for the Roederer Online Wine Communicator of the Year Award. Her work has been published in Decanter, Wine Enthusiast, Edible Green Mountains, Wine Searcher, Food Arts, Snooth, Beverage Media, TimAtkin.com, Civiltà del Bere, Wine Business Monthly, TASTED, Selectus Wines and in other outlets.